Cultural Appropriation of Kyrgyz Ornaments by a Russian Business

The controversy surrounding the Russian brand YAKA, which incorporates Kyrgyz national ornaments into its clothing designs, has sparked divided reactions among Kyrgyz citizens. Initially focused on copyright concerns, the debate quickly expanded beyond Kyrgyz social media, addressing broader cultural and ethical issues.

How the YAKA and Kyrgyz Ornament Scandal Became an International Issue

Founded in 2023 by Russian national Anna Obydenova, YAKA is a clothing brand that produces garments, accessories, and carpets with an ethnic style. The brand’s products are displayed on Instagram, with its showroom located in Moscow. YAKA describes itself as preserving cultural heritage by blending traditional Central Asian ornaments with modern trends. It claims to celebrate individuality by incorporating vibrant colors, variations of traditional patterns, and an Eastern aesthetic into its designs.

However, Kyrgyz social media users expressed outrage over perceived misinterpretations of Kyrgyz history and a lack of understanding of national costumes. YAKA claimed it was created in honor of the 100th anniversary of the Kyrgyz Republic, despite the fact that the Kyrgyz Republic was officially established in 1991. In 2024, Kyrgyzstan celebrated the 100th anniversary of the Kara-Kyrgyz Autonomous Region, not the Kyrgyz Republic.

The most significant point of contention was a statement on YAKA's website warning against copying its designs and suggesting that imitating its stylistic elements or trademarks could lead to legal action.

Did YAKA Violate Copyright Laws?

Many social media users believed YAKA had claimed copyright ownership over national ornaments and designs created by Kyrgyz artisans. A craftswoman named Elmira shared on social media that some of the designs used by YAKA were her original creations. She had thought her work was being sent to Almaty, not Moscow.

“When tourists buy national crafts and later claim them as their own in their home countries, that is theft. This is exactly what we see with YAKA. This clothing was made by my hands and others’. I believe any company using Kyrgyz ornaments must provide information about their history and significance. If these patterns are used for commercial purposes, the products should be labeled ‘Made in Kyrgyzstan,’” she wrote.

Designer Nuraiym Mederbek kyzy also criticized YAKA:

“YAKA purchased a collection from the Kyrgyz brand @ekish_saima, which actively promotes its work on Instagram. But buying products doesn't give them the right to claim the designs as their own. If YAKA had developed an original idea in a Russian style and Kyrgyz artisans had brought it to life, that would be different. But in this case, these are ready-made designs deeply rooted in national culture, traditions, and values.”

Are National Ornaments Protected by Copyright?

Anarbek Ismailov, head of the Intellectual Property Rights Department at Kyrgyzpatent, clarified that national ornaments typically do not fall under copyright protection because they are considered part of the cultural heritage of the entire nation. However, individual products featuring these ornaments may be protected if patented as industrial designs or utility models.

"There are objects of copyright and industrial property, such as jacket designs. If an industrial design is patented, it becomes subject to protection. If not, the original creator loses the ability to prevent competitors from copying it," Ismailov explained.

Since no Kyrgyz national ornament has been registered as a utility model or industrial design, legally, YAKA did not violate copyright laws.

Is This Cultural Appropriation?

At the heart of the controversy is the accusation of cultural appropriation—the disrespectful use of elements from another culture. Eric Abdykalykov, founder of the Qoorchaq brand, emphasized that each national ornament carries a specific meaning, and using it out of context can be harmful:

“Kyrgyz culture is not a trend; it is a heritage. If a designer fails to understand its depth, they risk devaluing national identity.”

Anna Obydenova responded on Instagram, asserting that YAKA products are labeled ‘Made in Kyrgyzstan’ and rejecting claims of appropriation:

“We believe this is not appropriation. There are other words: authenticity, identity, respectful engagement with cultural heritage, and popularization of Kyrgyz traditions beyond the country.”

However, many Kyrgyz citizens were unsatisfied with this explanation, pointing out superficial descriptions of national garments, such as referring to the beldemchi (a traditional women’s garment) as ‘a skirt with embroidery’ and calling a headscarf with national patterns ‘Better Than Your Ex.’

Critics argue that YAKA commodifies Kyrgyz culture without educating buyers on its meaning or history:

“The brand acts as if it’s promoting national culture internationally, but in reality, it’s profiting off it. A customer buying a ‘Better Than Your Ex’ scarf for 30,000 rubles ($330) learns nothing about Kyrgyzstan or the meaning behind the patterns. They’re just buying an expensive scarf with a flashy print.”

The controversy intensified when Obydenova received offensive messages and responded by mocking critics’ Russian language skills. As a result, the backlash grew. As of now, Obydenova has made her Instagram profile private.

However, on February 18, a few days after the scandal erupted, YAKA issued another statement:

“We acknowledge that our brand has affected many people. We hear and feel the emotions behind your messages. We respect your right to speak about pain and injustice and recognize our responsibility in what has happened. We were not careful enough in our wording. We wanted to tell the story behind each item, but we rushed to promote our website with simplified descriptions. The information about copyright on our site caused misunderstandings.”

The statement also emphasized that Kyrgyz artisans craft each item and that the brand remains committed to collaborating with and respecting the culture that inspires them.

A Pattern of Appropriation?

Anna Obydenova is not the first designer to use Kyrgyz motifs. In 2018, renowned American fashion designer Donna Karan featured felt coats with Kyrgyz ornaments in her fall collection. These were created by Kyrgyz felt artist Farzana Sharshenbieva and sold for $2,495. At the time, the news was met with pride. So why does YAKA’s case feel different?

The key issue is that YAKA presents itself as a promoter of Kyrgyz culture but fails to acknowledge the Kyrgyz artisans and designers who worked on the collection. For foreign designers, ethnic fashion is a business opportunity, but for Kyrgyz citizens, it’s a matter of cultural respect and recognition. Without genuine engagement, empathy, and acknowledgment of national heritage, any entrepreneur risks being accused of cultural appropriation.

Conclusion

The YAKA scandal goes beyond copyright issues—it highlights a broader conversation. On one hand, Kyrgyz citizens are becoming more vocal in defending their cultural heritage. On the other, the controversy underscores the need for legal frameworks to protect artisans from exploitation without proper recognition.

This case gained international attention, with media outlets such as Meduza (Russia), Dozhd (Russia), Vzglyad (Uzbekistan), and Kursiv.media (Kazakhstan) covering the story. The topic also trended on social media, with one TikTok breakdown video nearing 1 million views.

While some defended YAKA, arguing that the brand makes Kyrgyz ornaments more globally recognizable, others criticized its commercialization of culture. Ultimately, this controversy presents an opportunity for Kyrgyz designers to assert their presence and showcase authentic national fashion to the world.